Jeep Wrangler Poison Spyder RockerBrawler Rear Bumper w/ Carrier (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install

Jeep Wrangler Poison Spyder RockerBrawler Rear Bumper w/ Carrier (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install

This Poison Spider RockBrawler Rear Bumper
and Tire Carrier is for those of you that have a 1997-2006 TJ that are looking for a
very high-quality rear bumper and tire carrier combination. This is going to be one of the more expensive
options on the market, but it is engineered in a way that no other bumper really is, and
it is going to be something that is worth the cost if you’re looking for that top tier
rear bumper. This is going to be an easy one-out-of-three-wrench
installation for anybody to do in their driveway. Simply bolt the bumper on the back of your
jeep, and we’ll talk a little bit more about that in just a second. So when you hear the name Poison Spider, you’ve
become accustomed to a certain level of quality, and that’s exactly what you’re going to see
here. This thing has been engineered in a way, like
I said, that not a lot of other rear bumper and tire carrier combinations have, and that’s
going to make for a very nice fit and finish. It’s going to make for something that isn’t
going to rattle, it’s not gonna sag, it’s not gonna wear out. It’s not gonna do any of those things that
those less-expensive options on the market have been known to do over time. So if you have the budget for it and you want
one of the best built rear bumper and tire combinations out there, I think that this
is going to be a great option for you. This bumper is made out of 3/16-inch steel,
and it does have some 3/4-inch shackle mounts built into it. It has a lot of features that on paper look
like what you would find from a lot of other bumper and tire carrier options out there,
however, this is going to be very, very different in a lot of ways. So from the feature standpoint again, pretty
similar to what you’d be used to seeing here. You have your shackle mounts, again 3/4-inch,
nice and heavy, you have the 2-inch receiver here, this does have a couple of spots for
some chains. This doesn’t explicitly say that it is tow
rated but you can definitely use that for recovery. And then, of course, you’re going to have
your tire carrier here. So you’re gonna be wanting to shop for a spare
tire carrier that is bumper mounted if you’re running a larger than factory spare tire on
your Jeep. If you have a big, heavy spare on that factory
tire carrier, you can really run into one of three different issues. Your hinges can start to fail, which will
allow the whole tailgate to sag, the tailgate itself can separate and break apart, and the
tire carrier itself is only rated for a factory size and weight spare. So that metal can start to fatigue and break
down as well. So you really have two options if you’re looking
for a way to remedy that situation, one is going to be a bumper mounted tire carrier
like this one, and the other is going to be a tub mounted tire carrier. If you’re looking for a bumper mounted tire
carrier, again, this is going to be one of the highest quality ones that you can get. This is going to be 3/16-inch steel. The shackle mounts are 3/4-inch, giving you
a ton of strength there. This has a couple of features that I really
like, one is the 2-inch receiver that’s built directly into it, even though this is a nice,
slim, low profile bumper, it still has room for that 2-inch receiver. This does have a spot for a pin and four chains. It doesn’t exclusively or explicitly say that
this is going to be a tow rated bumper, but you can certainly use that for recoveries. Of course, you have your spot for your shackles
for additional recovery points, and the main part of this bumper that’s really, really
well engineered is going to be the tire carrier. So the pivot point here, nice and strong,
welded all the way through. It comes with bearings, not just any bearings,
these are Timken bearings, so again, high-quality. Some of the other tire carriers out there
will just be a sleeve that slides over the top of a spindle. This, of course, having bearings on the top
and the bottom is going to ensure that this remains very easy to open and close over a
very long period of time. The latch on the other side there is essentially
like a car door latch. Again, there are a lot of less expensive options,
less expensive ways of building a latch. But Poison Spider doesn’t do that. This is the only latch that I’ve ever seen
that’s designed in the way that this one is, and it ensures that it’s going to close, it’s
gonna stay closed when you want it to stay closed, it’s going to open and open easily
when you need it to, even over a long period of time, and maybe most importantly for those
of you that are daily driving your Jeep, this is not going to rattle. So you get a lot out of that latch. As far as the mount itself goes, obviously
there are a bunch of different holes. This is adjustable for height, you wanna be
able to get that tire as low as possible so you can have maximum visibility out the back
window of your Jeep. And when you have the actual mount attached
onto the tire carrier, it’s also adjustable in and out. The idea there is that you can get the tire
nice and tight up against the tire carrier so nothing is gonna be torquing and trying
to rattle around and move around. That can eventually cause some metal fatigue. You’re not going to run into that with this
tire carrier. Another example of just how well-engineered
and put together this is, this is just the cap that goes over the top of the spindle
here once everything is completely installed. This is an aluminum piece, it has the Poison
Spider logo, they even give you a laser cut tool specifically for this cap here. So it just really shows the level of engineering
and the thought process that goes into building this, and just some of the reasons why this
is significantly more expensive than a lot of the other bumpers out there. I think if you have the budget it is worth
it because of all the thought that goes into this. This bumper and tire carrier combination comes
in at right around $1,300. Again, if you have the budget, if you want
something that’s top quality, this is going to be it. Everything from the welds, to the engineering
of the spindle and the latch mechanism, everything is top tier and I do think it’s gonna be worth
the cost. Now, as you can see, this is the bear steel
option at $1,300. So if you’re gonna have this powder coated,
you have to figure that cost into it as well. But again, if you want that top quality, this
is going to be it. Now a member of the install team will show
you how to get this bolted up to your TJ. Woman: So in order to take off our stock rear
bumper, we have to take off our end caps first. We have three 10mm bolts that we’re gonna
take off with a 10mm socket and an impact wrench. We have two on the top and one on the bottom. You can go ahead and remove the end cap. So now we can go ahead and take off the actual
bumper. We have two nuts on the back of the bumper. I have an 18mm nut on the bottom and a 19mm
on the top. It is gonna vary between your model. Once that’s off we can move to the other side. After the four nuts are removed, we can fully
remove the rear bumper. So after we remove our stock rear bumper,
we can go ahead and remove our spare tire and stock tire carrier to make room for our
new rear bumper and tire carrier. I have a 13/16 socket. Now we can remove the six bolts that are holding
on the spare tire carrier with a 13mm socket. So in order to get our new bumper bolted up,
we need to address the bolts and where they are going to mount in. So different models will vary between where
you are gonna mount it up and what kind of holes that you have already on your subframe. We already have four holes available for mounting
this up, we measured it out and we are going to tap out the bolts that are held in by the
retaining clips with a little mallet and bolt our bumper up. The bolts that we’re gonna keep are these
two, and these two, and these are held in by these little retaining clips and they have
a nut plate on the back. So we’re just going to…maybe not. So before we mount our new bumper up we have
to take off the license plate bracket so we can relocate it at the end. I have a 10mm socket. We are going to remove the license plate to
get into 10mm bolt holding the bracket in. So now we can mount up our rear bumper. While holding the bumper up, you can now loosely
install the nuts. I’m gonna loosely install the nuts on the
outer ends and then that will hold the bumper up well enough to access the inner two bolts. One side attached, you can move on to the
other side. Now we can loosely install the nut and washer
on this side. So now that the bumper is mounted up by the
outside four bolts, we can mount up the nut on the inner two bolts. First, I recommend putting on the washer just
because you don’t have a lot of room. You might even wanna use a magnet for this. You can make sure those are hand tight until
you come around and tighten everything up. So now we can go around and tighten up all
of our bolts with a 15mm socket or a 15mm wrench, whichever you can fit on the bolt. For this top one, usually can use a wrench
because you’re not gonna be able to fit a socket with the body mount right there. Now we can tighten up our inner bolts. After the bumper is on, we can attach our
crescent plate around the spindle, and we can insert our rivets. So you’re gonna need a rivet gun. So now with some latex gloves and some grease,
we are going to pack our roller bearings, get them ready to be installed on our tire
carrier. You wanna make sure that you’re getting it
inside the seams, and you’re packing all of that grease down into the seal. All right. And you can move over to your second one. All right. And after your Timken bearings are greased
up we can put a light coating of grease on the spindle. So with the tire carrier upside down, you’re
gonna insert your greased bearing into the pre-installed race sets in the sleeve. Make sure that it sits flat and you have movement
while it’s in there. Now we’re gonna install our bearing seal,
and you can either use a bearing seal driver or the appropriate sized socket to tap it
into place. We’re using an exhaust spacer. And just make sure everything is level while
you’re putting it into place. So with the help of a friend, they are going
to attach the tire carrier onto the spindle. Then you can drop in your second Timken bearing
into race. Now we can put our large flat washer on and
take our lock nut. We can take our lock nut and screw that on. So now that your lock nut is touching the
washer, your friend can turn the tire carrier in and out to make sure that there is no binding. Once the lock nut is tightened down, we can
go ahead and install our pivot cap with the provided tool. There is an O-ring on here pre-installed. If it does not come installed already, you
will have to put that on before tightening down the pivot cap. So now with an open-ended wrench, you can
tighten up your hex-head here so we can get the knob on for our lock pin assembly. Now, I have an adjustable wrench set at 23mm,
we’ll tighten that up, and thread on our knob. So now we can attach our ball joint elbow
to our latch assembly so we’re able to thread the rod into the ball joint elbow and pull
it up to release the tire carrier. So you’re going to insert that there, and
take your washer and lock nut and insert that on the back. So you’re gonna need two 11mm wrenches, one’s
gonna be a flexible headed ratcheting wrench and then another standard open-end wrench. Once you have the knob threaded on the threaded
latch knob, you can go ahead and insert that into your elbow ball joint and tighten that
down. And this will serve as your lock mechanism. Now we can attach the spider web with a provided
bolt and a 10mm nut. It is gonna have an Allen key attachment,
you can put your washer on the back and your lock nut. Thread that on, take an open-ended 10mm wrench
and we can tighten that down. You’re going to have to measure depending
on your tire and where you want it to sit on your spare tire carrier. We’re gonna go ahead and bolt it up with the
four 16mm bolts. So I would recommend hand tighten them first
and then you can tighten them down with a 16mm open-ended wrench and a 16mm socket and
a ratchet or an impact. Once that’s held on, you can put in the bottom
two. Now you can take your 16mm open-ended wrench
and your socket and tighten those down. So before we attach the mount to the tire
carrier, we need to press in our studs to hold our tire. There is gonna be a diagram on the back page
of the instructions for your 5×4-1/2 bolt pattern, and you also have it here. So we’re gonna head over to the vise and press
these in. After our studs are pressed in, we can put
it on the spare tire carrier. Now we can secure our spare tire carrier down
with our 14mm nut and bolts. So you’re going to attach your bolt and washer,
and you can loosen and adjust this as needed to your tire size. I always recommend hand tightening everything
so it’s secured in one spot and then you can go ahead and tighten everything down at the
end. After that’s installed, we can go ahead and
reinstall our spare tire. After those are on, you can torque them down
or you could tighten it down with a 19mm socket and a impact wrench. Now we can attach our license plate relocation
bracket on our spare tire carrier the same way that we attached the spare tire mount. You’re gonna insert your two bolts, they’re
gonna be an 11mm and then you can go ahead and take your washer and lock nut and secure
it down. And this is gonna have adjusters on it as
well so you can adjust it back and forth. Now, after you have it centered, you can tighten
it down with two 11mm wrenches. You’re not gonna be able to fit a socket in
there, just because of the placement with the wheel, but two wrenches should be fine. And now we can mount up our license plate
on our license plate relocation bracket with the four provided Allen bolts. While that’s mounted up, you can take your
nut, thread that on, hold it in place. Then you can take your 11mm open-ended wrench
and tighten that down with the Allen key provided. And do the same thing with the bottom. So that’s it for my review and install on
the Poison Spider RockBrawler rear bumper and tire carrier. For more installs like this, keep it right
here at



    Shop This Poison Spyder RockerBrawler Rear Bumper:
    Subscribe for Daily Jeep Videos:

  • Nice install but can you please change the tune for once that is in all your vids. 😉

  • Sorry, but it looks unfinished to me, and half-ass!

  • You got to love watching a girl work on things, long nails and using the wrench poorly. 🤦🏻‍♂️

  • Hey Ryan and team … love your videos been following yuh recently.. bot some stuff for my Jeep after watching .. now I need your help/advice on the lift kit.
    Which once I should go with sharing the links below.
    1. Mopar 4in lift kit or
    2. Jks jkonnect 3.5 lift kit

    Please advice. Tires will be 35 or 37s

  • I wanna buy

  • Bumper looks great, love Poison Spyder products!

  • Bothers the poop out of me to see chicks with long nails working this

  • can you put a padlock on this? I see a tab there

  • Very informative, background music was horrible and I had a hard time watching the fake fingernails

  • Great product, very poorly made clip for the price of the bumper… almost painful lol

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *